BOULDERFUZI GOES SPORT CLIMBING

"Tokamak, apparently the name of a fusion reactor based on the magnetic plasma confinement method. Whatever that means, it certainly sounds as extraordinary as the moves on this heavily overhanging route in Huatluckn, Peggau, feel: crazy 3D jugular roof climbing with lots of hooks and tricks, followed by a hefty 2-4 move crux and a juicy finish including a mantle to the anchor. The route overhangs by probably 12 meters over its 15 meters. The atmosphere in Huatluckn speaks for itself and could easily serve as a backdrop for Avatar 4… These days, the route is climbed almost as an afterthought, as a link in the many difficult combinations on the roof of Huatluckn. It's supposedly considered the 'ideal first 8a for boulderers'. After 15 attempts spread over 8 sessions in the summer of 2016 and spring of 2017, it was certainly my first and so far only 8a." The falls in the upper section, when I finally managed to climb past the crux, caused some of my belayers to shake their heads: "Dude, how can you still fall?" Nothing easier than that—at least for a "typical boulderer" (once even during the exit mantle on what I thought was a sure thing... no such luck). One more session. And then—no more falls! Now it's upcycling—the rope has been repurposed into a water bottle, keychain, glasses strap, and much more. Tokamak, my first 8a—my soul story.

Climber: Stoffl - Stefan Tscherner, Managing Director BLOC house

Area: Huatluckn, Route: Tokamak, 8a (my first on a rope)

Ascent: July 12, 2017